Victoria Gastro Pub
Knowing my passion for puckery ales, my family took me to Victoria‘s American Wild Ale Festival. Who could resist the pairing of their amazing brunch with some wild ales? Well, it turns out lots of people don’t like sour beer, but just about everyone loves Victoria’s brunch. And when you visit Victoria’s, their duck fat fries are a must.
So, we devoured a bucket of fries made with roasted garlic aioli and truffle sea salt (Actually 2 buckets). I like to dip them in the mayonnaise sauce. I found the Mushroom Rosti mouthwateringly scrumptious. It is roasted mushrooms, scrambled eggs, and Gruyere potato cake.
As for the beers, I tried a couple:
- Monmouth Red by Allagash Brewing Company – More vinegar than tart.
- Cranberry by Cascade Brewing Company — Fruity, cinnamon nose. Tart with a nice cinnamon finish.
Sour Ales
What is a wild or sour ale? It’s all in the yeast. Malts and hops are present, but yeast gives wilds and sours their distinct aromas and flavors. Many uninitiated are shocked to learn that sour and wild ales can taste and smell of barnyard, vinegar, earth, or tart cherry, all thanks to our little sugar-devouring bacterial friends.
Some examples of these ales are lambic, gueuze, Berliner weisse, gose, and oud bruin. Sours are made in America, as well as Germany, but to really get to know wilds and sours try Belgian ales.
As a longtime homebrewer, sanitation has become part of my brewing mantra. Yet, my beloved wilds and sours embrace the open air, welcoming wild critters like:
- Lactobacillus – the bacteria that sours milk, turning it into yogurt. Used to make Berliner weisses, salty goses, or Flanders red and brown ales.
- Pediococcus – produces diacetyl (butter & butterscotch flavors), and over time (usually with the help of Brettanomyces) become more acidic in taste.
- Brettanomyces (Brett) – Not responsible for the sour flavors, but produces earthy, horse blanket, and leather scents. Brewers fear and love these persistent creatures, which continue to devour sugars and carbohydrates well after other yeasts are done. This yeast is found on the skin of fruit. Breweries brew Brett in separate areas and equipment to contain contamination.
Where to Start?
At first, all my pint night buddies groaned when I suggested trying a sour ale. Today, I have a few converts who have gently embraced some of these very different beers.
For me, it came naturally. My dad delighted in telling of my childhood love of lemons, where I’d cry for the lemon slice at restaurants. Other patrons would look on in horror as I would devour the tart pulp, making hideous faces. My daughter has a similar passion for lemons and enjoys some sour beers. But if it’s not in your genes, where do you start?
It is best to ease your way into the land of sour. For some, Lindemans Framboise (raspberry lambic) is an ideal starter. It is raspberry sweet with a tartness similar to tart apples. If that one is too sweet for you, I suggest the Duchesse de Bourgogne. Or if you are looking for a local mild sour and enjoy the taste of grapefruit, try Manor Hill’s Grisette.
Cheers!
Warren